Lost in Loubi-Land

Forget the Olympics. Forget the Queen’s Jubilee. For the shoe lover in London this summer, Christian Louboutin’s retrospective exhibition at the Design Museum is the only game in town.

One floor of the normally stark and minimalist museum has been transformed into Loubi-Land, complete with carousel (which, rather disappointingly, doesn’t actually move) and hologram of Dita Von Teese performing.

Click to view the making of the hologram via Italian Vogue

A photographic section relates the designer’s life story. The Atelier demonstrates Louboutin’s design process, “taking the visitor through every stage of the design journey, revealing how a shoe is constructed, from the initial drawing and first prototype through to production in the factory.” The exhibition includes drawings (visitors are not allowed to take photographs but “sketchbooks are encouraged”), memorabilia, toys, handbags, a film room, and shoes, shoes, shoes. 200 pairs, apparently. It’s slightly overwhelming. 

And here’s the one problem I had with this otherwise marvelous exhibition. It’s a matter of scale. Louboutins are a treat, like truffles or oysters or Ladurée macaroons. Louboutin boutiques are little boudoirs, opulently designed to show off a couple of dozen sexy shoes. Stepping into one is like visiting a particularly mouth-watering (and particularly expensive) chocolate shop or charcuterie, where you can nibble 98% cocoa bonbons or acorn-fed pata negra at fifty euros a mouthful. You indulge, you sigh happily, you leave. This exhibition is more like an all-you-can-eat buffet. Here a six-inch stiletto, next to it a spiked ankle strap, then a multi-coloured trainer covered in Swarovski crystals, then another, and another and another – at first it is bewitching, then bewildering, then you just want a bit of a lie-down. 

Which brings us to the Fetish room, where individual creations are spotlit under bell jars in dark alcoves. This is fantasy footwear (as opposed to your regular six-inch stiletto...) but to me this section works better than others because you get to concentrate on one piece at a time and can appreciate what marvelous little pieces of exotic art and engineering they really are.

Still, as true shoe lovers know, there’s no such thing as too many shoes, just not enough space. Or, in this case, time. If at first you can’t take it all in, go back for another look. The show runs till July 9th. You know where to find me...

www.designmuseum.org