"Style," said John Fairchild, legendary publisher of W and Women's Wear Daily, "is an expression of individualism mixed with charisma. Fashion is something that comes after style." Which brings us to David Johansen and the New York Dolls.
For those who missed the 1970s here's a brief bio of David Jo, cribbed, with thanks, from the excellent blog of Tom Watson (tomwatson.typepad.com): "[David Johansen] screamed his way into glam rock royalty with the exuberant 'aaaaaahhhh-ooo - yeah yeah yeah' overture to Personality Crisis, the rollicking lead track of [debut album] New York Dolls... The Dolls mixed a healthy disregard for the excesses of rockstardom in the early 70s, with a taste for Chuck Berry, Sonny Boy Williamson, and other greats. They dressed like chicks, owned downtown, fought, did drugs, and rebuilt a dead New York City music scene almost single-handedly."
Actually, much of the time the Dolls dressed like drag queens on acid, but David Jo Рwell, as Tom Watson put it, "The boy always did have taste." While his bandmates opted for red and aquamarine pomp-rock platforms (not to mention Sylvan Sylvain's gold lam̩ onesie) the singer had a slightly more nuanced approach. In 1973 the Dolls appeared on the BBC's Old Grey Whistle Test (above) Рa performance Morrissey described as "the first emotional experience of my life" Рwith David Jo in a really covetable black-and-white polka-dot bell-sleeved blouse, red obi sash and matador pants. A staple of his appearances in those days was a simple, classy pair of black leather block-heel pumps. Here they are again (below) shot by Bob Gruen. Strong resemblance to the 'Remember' pump from Louis Vuitton A/W 2011, I think you'll find.
(Image thanks to fuckyeahnewyorkdolls)
Another trademark item of David Jo footwear was the white Cuban-heeled ankle boot. In 1979, on the cover of his solo album In Style (below), he was white-suited and -booted two years before Mick Jagger wedded Bianca in a white tuxedo in St Trop and everyone got all excited about it.
Since the 70s, David Jo has never stopped reinventing himself musically – as lounge lizard Buster Poindexter with the Banshees of Blue; exploring roots Americana with the Harry Smiths; then reforming and performing with the surviving Dolls. But one constant is his appreciation for cool shoes. I saw him most recently at the Lincoln Centre in NYC, in August 2010. He did a brilliant acoustic set (click here for his hilarious, sexy rendition of Bo Didley's Pills) accompanied by guitarist and long-time musical associate Brian Koonin. At 60 years of age, David Jo sounded stronger and looked cooler than ever. True to his Funky But Chic mantra – "I don't wear nothing not too fussy or neat" – he was in a simple white shirt, faded jeans – and those white Cuban-heeled boots.
(Image thanks to Eveningsong)
Well, Mr Shoeblogger, aka Shoehorn, has previous with rock 'n' roll footwear. On a recent trip back to London, I arrived to find him channeling David Johansen. (No, not in Louis Vooey heels, we're not having an Ed Wood moment in the shoe closet.)
Take a look at these...
These beautlicious white zip-front ankle boots are from Gucinari.
They are the finest, snowiest leather, with pull-straps and minimal trim and excellent little wooden heels. And they have the loveliest turquoise lining. They are cool, they are stylish – charismatic, even – they are SO rock 'n' roll. They are very David Jo. I wonder if there is a girls' version. I rush to the Gucinari website: "Apologies. We no longer sell women's shoes to the public."
Shoehorn gets to wear the rock star boots – but at least I am a natural shoe groupie.
"I got a pair of shoes I swear that somebody gave me
Momma thinks I look pretty fruity but in jeans I feel rockin'
I don't wear nothing not too fussy or neat
I just want something to be able to walk down your street
Hey, come on, baby, let's get on down to the boutique
Let's bring back something that's funky but chic..."